This Place is a Zoo

In Bangkok, it's not uncommon to see people on motorbikes transporting everything you can think of, including birdcages. I was relieved when I noticed that the cages were bird-less, but to tell you the truth, I wouldn't have been too surprised if there had been some mynah birds inside. On more than one occasion, I've seen pets on wheels, including poodles riding shotgun on motorcycles. And once I even saw a pet iguana traveling with a guy on the back of a motor scooter. I have yet to experience any furry, scaly, or feathered friends inside Bangkok taxis, with the exception of the herd of toy animals lined up on the dashboard of the taxi I rode in today.

Troubled Monk

The Buddhist monk on the incantation cloth doesn't look well. Maybe it has something to do with the fact that he's green. Also, the way his facial expression is drawn makes him look troubled and dispirited. This might be overly superstitious, but I think the monk's suffering could be alleviated if the thumbtack were removed from his stomach.

Extra Lucky

The taxi driver told me all about the individual amulets on the pedestals of his taxi shrine. He told me which temple each one comes from, which amulets are the luckiest, which ones attract a mate, and how much each charm cost. I asked him about the empty spot at the top, and he told me a passenger bought it. Apparently, the one that was purchased is supposed to be extra lucky. And that's why the driver charged him double what he originally paid for it.

Karaoke Taxi

No Eating, No Pets, and No Smoking. But if you want to belt out a tune, on the other hand, this cab's for you. Simply mention the word "karaoke" and the cabbie will flip down his DVD player attached to his sun visor and hand you a wireless mic. Choose from a long list of Thai songs with videos that include Roman letter subtitles spelling out Thai words, or take a walk down memory lane and select from the driver's collection of English language oldies. Which will you choose, Luk Thung, The Beatles, or Elvis?

Spring Chicken

When I got in the taxi today and saw the golden chicken bouncing around on a spring, I couldn't help but wonder if it was part of some religious or superstitious belief. So, I asked the cabbie about it and he laughed and told me his nickname is "Gai", which means chicken. I should have guessed as many Thais have animal nicknames. Since I've been in Bangkok, I've known a few Birds, Cats, and Lions and I've met some people nicknamed Kratae (squirrel), Noo (mouse), and Mee (bear). As a corny joke, I said to the cabbie in my best rendition of Thai, "you're no spring chicken". But by the look on his face, he clearly didn't get it. Obviously, my stupid joke got completely lost in translation.

Hodgepodge of Gods

I've often wondered why some religions insist on having only one god. What's wrong with worshipping a host of gods, goddesses, deities, idols, and talisman? It seems to me that the more divine beings we worship, the more we increase our chances of getting what we want and need.

True Colors

Thais love color. They're especially keen on bright colors combined with other vibrant colors to create a rainbow effect. It makes sense when you consider that this country has a tropical climate. And maybe this love of color has something to do with the cultural influences from India. It's also true that Thai people are attracted to anything that says "fun and happy" and these brilliant colors definitely fall under those categories. It's unfortunate, however, that the taxi driver in this cab wasn't as cheerful as his colorful taxi accoutrements. In fact, I would say he was downright miserable.

Scam-o-rama

The other day, someone asked me if I've ever been scammed by a Bangkok taxi driver. "Of course I have. This is Bangkok", was my answer. When I first arrived here, I fell victim to a few cabbies who drove me around the long way to jack up the fare, and a few times I had a driver who didn't turn on the meter and then tried to charge me an exorbitant rate at the end of the ride. Despite these bad experiences, the odds of getting scammed by Bangkok cabbies are pretty small (I've taken hundreds of taxis here and have had only a few problems), especially if you're aware of the potential scams and use some common sense.

Following are a few simple rules to follow to avoid getting burned by cabbies in the "City of Angels":

1. Do not take taxis that are sitting and waiting in tourist areas.

2. Make sure the driver turns on the meter.

3. Carry a map as a guide for yourself, but don't expect your driver to use it or look at it.

4. Bring a business card or get the address of your destination written in Thai.

5. Do not believe some recommendations or claims from your cabbie such as, "I know this great seafood restaurant" or "The Grand Palace is closed today".

Going for the Gold

Gold has long played a role in the history and culture of Thailand. Even the original name of Thailand, Siam, means "gold" in Sanskrit. The gold trade in Thailand dates back 2,000 years and gold is still this country's second largest export. Gold is also a big part of the most prevalent religion in Thailand, Theravada Buddhism. In Buddhist literature, the Buddha is often described as having a golden complexion. And anyone who has ever been to Thailand knows about its temples and statues covered in this precious metal. For me, a little gold can go a long way. Especially when it's fake and made out of plastic.

Photographic History

When I got into the taxi today, I had to ask myself, "What year is it?". Judging by the photo of the driver on his taxi license, it's 1852. The color and the image appear as if it were made with a camera from the early days of photography. Even the serious expression and clothing style of the cabbie in the photo hark back to an era gone by. I didn't ask my driver when this photo was taken, but my guess is that it was taken before cars were invented.

Green Pendant

In New York City, it's estimated that half the taxi drivers are Muslim. In Bangkok, it's a much lower percentage. How do I know? Just take a look inside Bangkok taxis and you'll usually find images of Buddha and Buddhist monks. It's not often you see an Islamic item inside the cabs, such as the green pendant with golden arabic writing and decorative motifs on it. I asked my driver about it, but it turns out he isn't Muslim. He's Buddhist. So, I questioned him on why this Islamic object is in his cab. He told me simply, "I like the color".

Miscommunication

It's not too often you see Chinese calligraphy scrawled on the ceiling of Bangkok taxis. Usually the script is written in Sanskrit or Pali. I decided to ask the driver if he could translate the meaning of the Chinese characters, but unfortunately the cabbie didn't know what it says. He told me it was written by a Chinese monk for his Chinese-Thai boss who owns the taxi. Then he mentioned that even if it were written in Sanskrit or Pali, he wouldn't be able to read it.

Great Balls of Fire!

Today, I asked my taxi driver from Northeast Thailand about his Buddha statuette with the seven-headed serpent, or Naga, surrounding Buddha's head. He took the opportunity to talk about the annual Bang Fai Phaya Nak Festival taking place this week in Nong Khai province near the border of Laos where fireballs shoot up from the Mekong River. As Thai legend has it, this phenomenon is created by a Naga living under the river. Since moving to Thailand, I've heard all about this extremely well-attended festival that features hundreds of flaming orbs rising up from the water. I've never been to the festival, but I hope to go someday to see Thailand's very own flame-throwing Loch Ness Monster.

Thai Heroes

In Thailand, we don't need another hero. We already have Buddhist monks and Doraemon, the Japanese manga character. When I first saw the image of the monk with the Doraemon figurines in the taxi, I couldn't hold back my laughter. There's something hilarious about the combination of a meditating monk next to two ecstatic blue cats from the future. Yet the more I thought about this funny juxtaposition, the more I realized that strangely enough there's a similarity between Buddhist monks and Doraemon: both of them teach moral lessons and both of them have no fur (Doraemon is a robot and monks shave their heads).    

Taxi Spirit

I have the goose bumps just thinking about it. The other night I took a taxi very late and the driver insisted on telling ghost stories the entire time. Apparently he has seen ghosts. IN HIS TAXI! Not knowing how to react and feeling completely scared out of my wits, I decided to try and distract myself by snapping photos of the amulets in the cab. Unfortunately, I think my photo-taking further conjured up whatever was in the car. In every photo taken in the taxi that night there are mysterious glowing orbs of light... 

Cultural Investment

I wonder how many baht I've spent riding in Bangkok taxis over the past six years.  On average, I take five or six taxis a week with fares ranging from sixty baht to one hundred and fifty baht. I don't even want to do the math! If I had taken local buses all this time, I could have probably saved enough money to buy my own vehicle or a small village in Isaan. On the other hand, I should consider my taxi rides an investment in my education of Thai culture. Where else would I learn so much about Thai beliefs and superstitions?      

Soothing Monk

Today, when I took a taxi and was stuck in traffic and at seemingly never-ending red lights, I wanted to jump out of the car or tell the cabby to lay on the horn. For most of the ride, I sat in the back seat fidgeting and feeling restless. But then I glanced at the monk statuette in the taxi and I immediately calmed down. As I looked at the peaceful meditating monk, I realized that I needed to re-think my own attitude. I wonder if Bangkok taxi drivers keep monk statuettes like this one in their cabs to remind themselves to be laid back.

Taxi Foliage

I asked my taxi driver about these leaves in the back of his cab assuming he would give me some insight on how monks use them in sacred rituals or how they're supposed to bring luck. Instead the cabbie started talking about food as these leaves are also used in Thai cooking. The leaves come from pandan, a tropical herbaceous plant, and are used in several Thai desserts, drinks, and savory treats. The flavor is sweet and fresh, and very distinct, and it's supposed to be good for your health. If you see a dessert in Thailand that's green in color, there's a chance it may have been made with pandan because the leaves are also used to dye food green. Either that or the dessert has gone bad.      

Taxi Bling

In Thailand, we're crazy about glittery, sparkly things. We love our temples to shimmer with gold and colored mirrors, and we love jewelry and baubles with bling. I asked the taxi driver about his flashy pendant and he told me a customer had accidentally left it behind. Personally, I think it would look better attached to a rapper's chunky necklace than dangling from Buddhist prayer beads.   

Sacred Compartment

It's not often that you see sacred monk writing on the glove compartment of Bangkok taxis.  Usually, it's on the ceiling.  For some reason, the monk who blessed this taxi thought this was a good place to add the curly script. Maybe the driver keeps a sacred relic inside this little chamber.  Or maybe the monk wrote on the glove compartment because the ceiling is already completely covered with stickers.

Yoo Hoo!

You! Yes, you! Come over here! I'm the Thai goddess, Nang Gwak. Give me your money! Patronize my business! Take a ride in my cab! Please? 

Fuzzy Wuzzy Pillow

Thais love to accessorize. And Bangkok taxi drivers are no exception. Not only do they adore fancy embellishments on the dashboard, but they also have a weakness for furry head cushions.  Ranging from fuzzy pillows decorated with American or British flags to fluffy pink pillows with Hello Kitty emblazoned on them, they're a common sight in the cabs of this city. In the case of this cab, the single pink furry head pillow was not enough for the driver. Oh no. It was only a small part of a larger collection of furry items in the back window, including a giant Hello Kitty pillow, two Piglet pillows, and a hot pink fuzzy tissue holder.          

Good Goddess

Robed in pure white and sometimes depicted on a lotus flower, the goddess Guan Yin is worshiped throughout Asia, including Thailand. Admired for her kindness, mercy, and unconditional love, many believe she can relieve suffering. And due to her compassion toward all living things, she's associated with vegetarianism. This particular goddess doesn't appear in Bangkok cabs very often, but when you see her on the dashboard, you can usually trust that the driver is good-natured and kind-hearted just like Guan Yin.

Deva of the Sea

If you're planning on sailing the seven seas, you might consider praying to Jatukam (pictured on the left), as this compassionate deva protects seafarers and the oceans. In addition, he is known to watch over his followers, bring respect from others, and increase wealth. I wonder if he can help prevent seasickness, too.    

Jealous Devil

When I snapped this photo in a Bangkok taxi a while back, the cabby told me his brother had brought this devil back from Japan for him. At the time I had never seen anything like it, but when I was in Tokyo I saw similar ones for sale. I found out that it's a Hannya mask from Japanese theater based on a female character whose jealousy turns her into a demon. I've known a few jealous devils like this one in my lifetime. Do you know any?    

Chupa Chups Buddha

I don't mean to be disrespectful, but Buddhas made out of translucent resin remind me of hard candy or lollipops without sticks.  Even their colors bring to mind flavors such as tart lime, cherry red, and tangy orange.  My taxi driver with the juicy yellow Buddha would have been shocked if I had given his statue a big lick.                

Reverse Culture Shock

I'm back in the good 'ol U.S. of A. for a visit and I knew I wasn't in Bangkok anymore when I queued up in Passport Control at Chicago O'Hare Airport. When I moved toward the line, a crabby airport worker came over and bellowed at me to quickly move forward. I guess I've grown accustom to soft Thai voices and polite greetings. And most Thai people aren't usually in such a big rush.

Tokyo Taxi

Taxi drivers wearing white gloves, glass partitions between the front and back seats of the cabs, and car doors that automatically open and close. Welcome to Tokyo taxis. Last week I was in Japan and I took a few cabs while I was there, but coming from Bangkok, it was hard to adjust to Tokyo's expensive cab fares. And it just wasn't as fun taking cabs that don't have Buddha and monk statuettes on the dashboard.                 

Cautious Driver

I tried not to take it personal when the taxi driver quickly slipped on his face mask as he saw me, the foreigner, approaching. When I got in the cab, one of the first questions the cabby asked me was where I was from, and even though this is an inquiry I regularly get in Bangkok taxis, I couldn't help thinking that he wanted to check to see if I'm from North America, home of the dreaded swine flu. For a little harmless fun, I faked a couple of coughs. At least now he can believe he protected himself from a contagious foreign customer.

The Gang's All Here

Today, my taxi driver told me he and his father have been collecting Thai statuettes and amulets of Buddha, monks, and other important figures from Thai history for forty years. According to the cabby, every famous monk and style of Buddha is represented. What you see in the photo is only part of the collection. There are more on the dashboard and in the front, and he was wearing an amazing collection of amulets around his neck. Some of them are worth a fortune; the driver told me one is even valued at a million baht. As I stepped out of the taxi, the driver asked me if I wanted to buy one. I told him I need to take out a loan from the bank first.    

Taxi Visors

Turn down the sun visors inside Bangkok taxis and you're liable to find an image of Buddha or a monk hanging from them. This is yet another place inside the cabs where religious images are displayed. Of course, the visors also help to block out the intense and scorching sun rays of Thailand, and sometimes the visors work well enough that you don't even need to wear your Ray-Bans.       

Taxi Driver License

I always glance at the photo of the driver on the dashboard. Somehow I feel more comfortable knowing what the cabbie looks like head on, as I usually only get to see the back of the driver's head or the side of their face. Today, as I studied the driver's portrait and then looked over at the cabbie, I didn't see much of a resemblance. I assumed it was his co-worker who shares the cab with him, so I decided to ask him about his fellow cabbie. For a moment, the driver didn't say a word. But then he told me that it was his own photo taken 30 years ago.