Still Life in Moving Vehicles

Angry Cabby

2012-01-28T21:30:00.010+07:00

Today in the taxi, one of the first things that I noticed was the Angry Birds sticker on the taxi meter. I assumed that the taxi driver is addicted to this video game just like millions of others around the globe. So, I turned and asked him how often he plays the game, but to my surprise, he scowled at me and didn't utter a word. Maybe he, himself, is an angry bird.

Happy Lotuses

2012-01-24T18:40:00.008+07:00

Thais, in general, can be quite resourceful. I love how the cabby created a lotus pond out of ribbons around the image of the Buddha. Either that or the driver just opened his birthday gifts.

Enter the Dragon

2012-01-21T21:19:00.012+07:00

Dragons can be spotted on the side of some Bangkok taxis as a company logo and inside the cabs as symbolic decorative elements. Considering that this is the Chinese year of the dragon, you'll most likely be seeing even more of this fire-breathing creature around. Happy Dragon Year!

Changeless Cabbies

2012-01-17T22:38:00.011+07:00

I'll never understand why a majority of Bangkok cabbies don't carry change with them. It seems like having petty cash on hand would be a requirement of the job. Normally, I don't think much about it, but today in the taxi I didn't have any smaller bills with me. Fortunately, the driver had a few extra twenty baht bills on the dashboard that he could use as change. Or so I thought. It turns out that the money was reserved as an offering to the gods. So, I ended up paying an additional forty baht for the ride. Apparently, this is how the driver collects his "offerings".

Too Bad for Brad

2012-01-13T21:53:00.009+07:00

If Brad Pitt were Asian with a dark complexion, had jet black hair, looked about fifty-five years old, and drove a taxi in Bangkok, the cabby with this sticker in the rear passenger window would look exactly like him.

Taxi Beats

2012-01-07T10:27:00.004+07:00

With a sizable jury-rigged sound system in the back of the taxi, I was anticipating cruising around the streets of Bangkok with the windows rolled down and the speakers thumping. But rather than putting on some rap with heavy bass, the cabby popped in the Carpenters Greatest Hits CD.

Number One

2012-01-05T15:23:00.006+07:00

There are some English words and phrases that everyone in Thailand knows regardless of their level of English-speaking ability. One of those phrases is "number one". Today, when I noticed that the identification plate on the taxi's rear door included a one, I asked the cabby how he received such an auspicious number. He replied, "I am number one taxi driver in Thailand".

Happy Holidays

2011-12-22T23:27:00.006+07:00

"When you realize how perfect everything is you will tilt your head back and laugh at the sky" - The Buddha

Miracle Buddha

2011-12-09T01:35:00.006+07:00

Perhaps the most common Buddha image in Bangkok taxis is this one: Luang Phor Sothorn. This is obviously a reproduction, but the original one is believed to hold miraculous powers. In 1767 AD, the Buddha sculpture escaped the burning capital city of Ayutthaya and was swept downstream to Chachoengsao Province southeast of Bangkok where it was rescued by locals who tied a string around it and reeled it in. Today, many Bangkok taxi drivers make regular pilgrimages to the temple where this image is housed. And oftentimes, the cabbies pick up a souvenir in the form of a statuette, like this one on the dashboard.

Father of Thailand

2011-12-05T18:29:00.005+07:00

Today is HM King Bhumibol Adulyadej's 84th birthday. As he is considered to be the father of the country, today also marks the celebration of Father's Day in Thailand. Happy Birthday to His Majesty the King and Happy Father's Day!

See No Evil

2011-12-04T11:26:00.008+07:00

Among the lucky charms glued to this taximeter is a dark grey amulet depicting the seated Phra Pidta, or monk with closed eyes. Just like one of the monkeys from the famous trio, he sees no evil. And in the context of the Bangkok cab, he sees no ugly passengers.

Insert Face Here

2011-11-30T14:44:00.015+07:00

Looking like one of those things that you stick your head in at carnivals for a laugh and a photo op is this picture of a smiling Buddhist monk combined with an illustration of the fat Chinese folkloric deity, Budai, in a Bangkok taxi. I guess that this is more appropriate than surrounding the monk's face with the image of a lion tamer, a muscleman, or a cartoon character.

Made in China

2011-11-26T01:56:00.009+07:00

Mountainous landscapes have been one of the main subjects in Chinese art since the Song Dynasty in the 11th Century. It's hard not to appreciate the dreamlike quality of painted rocky cliffs fading into misty skies and elegantly drawn branches of bamboo. As my eyes wandered through the mystical landscape in the back of this taxi, I felt transported to another world. But then I suddenly realized that I was stuck in a traffic jam in the concrete jungle with my dirty feet plunked on a cheap floor mat made in China.

Let There Be Light

2011-11-21T22:20:00.008+07:00

If achieving enlightenment involves sitting under a tree on a lotus for days on end, it's going to be a very long time before I reach this level of awareness. It's too bad that attaining this form of illumination is not as easy as turning on an interior car light.

Bangkok Porsche Taxi

2011-11-20T00:23:00.017+07:00

In a city where advertising bombards you everyplace you go, introducing new products in Bangkok sometimes necessitates unconventional publicity stunts to get people's attention. Earlier this year, Samsung pimped out a Porsche Boxster as a Bangkok taxi and rode around the city picking up fares to promote their new Samsung Galaxy S II smartphone. I don't quite get the connection. And I'm not sure why a Lady Gaga song was chosen to accompany the video. But anyway, the marketing scheme seems to have worked. Never mind that they forgot to include any talismans on the dashboard.

Monk Fish

2011-11-18T22:14:00.005+07:00

One of my favorite types of talismans in taxis here is in the form of fish made from accordion-pleated banknotes. Normally, these lucky charms are created with out-of-circulation Thai baht, but this one incorporates fake money with pictures of venerated Thai monks on it. I've heard of monkfish before, but this is getting a little too literal.

Thai Origami

2011-11-13T15:31:00.007+07:00

Thailand's answer to origami, the traditional Japanese art of paper folding, doesn't involve delicate paper with kimono designs folded into elegant forms of graceful animals, such as cranes. On the contrary, as illustrated by this cat-like figure in the back of a Bangkok taxi, it entails cheap shiny plastic in garish colors stitched together to form ill-proportioned creatures embellished with plastic beads and bells.

Pepsi Taxi vs. Coke Cab

2011-11-05T21:07:00.012+07:00

When it comes to the battle between Coke vs. Pepsi in Thailand, Pepsi appears to be winning. Certainly you can find both brands in supermarkets and convenience stores here, but an overwhelming majority of local restaurants, mom-and-pop noodle shops, and street-side stalls serve Pepsi. In a country where drinks and desserts tend to be on the sweet side, it makes sense that this slightly more sugary cola wins the Thai taste test. When I noticed the Pepsi clock on the dashboard in this cab, I assumed that the cabbie was yet another Thai fan of this carbonated beverage. But when I asked him about his timekeeper, he told me that it was free and that he actually prefers to drink Coke.

Be Strong

2011-11-02T13:33:00.005+07:00

Since July of this year, over three million people in Thailand have been seriously affected by the floods. Many people have lost their homes and jobs. Others have been trapped inside their house for weeks and some are going without basic necessities. The driver of this taxi told me that he has been living in evacuee shelters for the past three weeks and his only personal belongings that he has left are in the trunk. For him and for many others, getting through this crisis will take a lot of courage. My hopes are that those directly hit by the floods can be as strong as the tiger whose image is stuck to the back window of this Bangkok taxi.

Let's Swim!

2011-10-29T17:02:00.009+07:00

According to some reports in the local media, fifty percent of taxis have recently disappeared from the streets of Bangkok due to flooding in and around the city. A fair amount of cabbies have returned to their home province to avoid the floods, some taxi cooperatives located in areas with high water are closed, and many cabs are parked in high places for safekeeping. As a result, it is becoming more difficult to find taxis to hail in this city. And some drivers are refusing fares because they don't want to venture into flood-prone areas. If you have difficulty finding a cab at this time, don't worry. In some areas it's now possible to swim to your destination.

Thai Hermit

2011-10-23T20:23:00.008+07:00

If you happen to spot a figure wearing a tiger skin robe in Bangkok, don't assume that it's another ridiculous trend in this city of fashion victims. Rather, these guys in animal print garb are Thai hermits who live, study, and meditate in forests or caves. Known in Thai as Phra Lersi, these ascetics usually practice traditional medicine and white magic. Bangkok cabbies keep images of Phra Lersi in their taxis to protect themselves from evil spirits. Or perhaps the statuettes represent the taxi drivers themselves who spend a considerable amount of time alone in their cabs away from their family and friends.

Hungry God

2011-10-19T15:50:00.013+07:00

Phra Rahu is a Thai god originating from Hindu tradition whose image is sometimes displayed inside Bangkok taxi cabs. He's usually depicted on amulets, charms, and stickers, and cabbies here believe that he's lucky and can help bring in more Thai baht. If you're not familiar with this giant celestial being, you might think that he's nibbling on a cookie or chowing down on pizza. But according to folk beliefs that attempt to explain how eclipses occur, he's trying to eat the sun and the moon. We're talking about a serious case of indigestion here.

Taxi Turtles

2011-10-16T11:57:00.006+07:00

At the moment, Thailand is experiencing some of the worst flooding in decades. The deluge of water is creating havoc and many people in provincial Thailand have been forced to evacuate their homes. With high water on some roads, the traffic has been worse than usual, too. Today, while experiencing major gridlock on the way home in a taxi, I wished I were a sea turtle that could swim through the deep puddles past all the cars. Never mind the potential danger. Turtles are a symbol of good luck and longevity in Thailand, so I have a feeling that I would be perfectly safe.

First Place and Runner-Up

2011-10-06T20:44:00.011+07:00

Ever since the Thai general elections in July of this year, stickers with the image of the new Prime Minster Yingluck Shinawatra have appeared in taxis. A caricature of her stands holding up her finger to signify that she is number one. And that's true when it comes to the fact that she is the first female Prime Minister in Thailand's history. But for many Bangkok cabbies, she is in second place. Her older brother, ousted former Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra, is still considered to be number one by most of the drivers.

Buddha Swirls

2011-09-30T22:08:00.009+07:00

The first time I saw these swirly decorations in Bangkok taxis, it brought me right back to my primary school days when we used to make handicrafts out of bendable pipe cleaners. Back then, we constructed all kinds of things out of them, including various creatures and human figures. These embellishments in the taxis, however, are sacred symbols that represent the Buddha's enlightenment. I wonder if the Thai monks who create these Buddhist insignias have as much fun making them as we did in school when we played with pipe cleaners.

To the Rescue

2011-09-24T22:00:00.007+07:00

Until recently, I had no idea what this sticker of a rescue worker walking away with a lifeless damsel in his arms is trying to represent. It turns out that this cartoony image is the logo for the Thai Volunteer Road Rescue Foundation. Truck drivers and cabbies that display this symbol on their vehicle should be commended for helping those involved in car accidents. And all this while, I was just thinking that Thai guys with this sticker are super creepy and morbid.

Plastic City

2011-09-18T20:59:00.011+07:00

The general consensus in Thailand is that plastic is fantastic. In many ways, this synthetic material has become a symbol of modernization in this developing country. Never mind all those scientists warning us that plastic is detrimental to the environment and perhaps our health. Many street vendors who once wrapped their treats in banana leaves now use plastic bags, and the convenience stores here should get an award for contributing the most non-biodegradable materials to landfills. In Bangkok taxis, cabbies often protect parts of their car interiors in plastic. In this taxi, the driver even left his lucky charm in the original plastic sleeve that the seller had put it in.

Anime Taxi

2011-09-12T16:24:00.005+07:00

Anime and manga are big in Thailand. Anime is regularly screened on TV and it's common to see office workers on the bus flipping through manga comic books. Many Bangkok cabbies are also fans. Just take a look inside many taxis here and you'll find a host of manga and anime characters on the dashboard or in the back window. For many, it's a way to temporarily avoid deliberating on the realities of the daily grind. Some would rather be one of these characters, such as Doraemon, the blue robotic cat from the future who comes back to help others while teaching a lesson or two.

Baby Carriage

2011-09-02T10:27:00.006+07:00

Many Bangkok cabbies have their own style when it comes to decorating their taxis. Some prefer to take a minimalist approach with a few talismans sitting on the dashboard. Other cabbies like to mix it up with an eclectic collection of religious and secular paraphernalia. Still others would rather create an environment based on a theme. Take, for example, this taxi which includes decorative elements from a baby nursery.

Taxi Wayfinders

2011-08-24T10:48:00.005+07:00

Lately, I've been noticing a lot of GPSs in Bangkok cabs. This could be a major revolution. In taxis without these electronic devices, passengers usually need to provide directions to the drivers themselves.

War and Peace

2011-08-15T06:19:00.015+07:00

Over the past few years I've met several Bangkok cabbies who are retired soldiers, including the owner of this taxi. Apparently, the plastic Army man displayed on the taxi meter is a reminder of the driver's past. As I rode along in the cab, I thought about the irony behind the toy soldier who appears to be protecting the Buddha. According to the beliefs of most Thai military personnel, the Buddha protects them.

Buddhist Saying

2011-08-04T22:44:00.003+07:00

Yesterday is a memory, tomorrow is a mystery, and today is a gift,

which is why it is called present.

The Art of Improvisation

2011-07-31T18:40:00.008+07:00

Thais on the whole are adept at improvising, and Bangkok cabbies are particularly good at winging it. One cabbie that I met was tired of listening to customers complain about the heat in the back of the taxi, so he strapped a fan to the seats with a bungee cord. Another taxi driver needed to prop up the rear brake light that he rigged and decided that a couple of plastic food containers would work best. Never mind that these contraptions aren't overly pleasing to the eye. In both cases, function takes precedence over beauty.

Sound of a Phin

2011-07-26T23:37:00.017+07:00

Many Thais are musically oriented which explains why karaoke is so popular in Thailand and why you hear recorded and live music in so many places here. Bangkok cabbies often enjoy listening to music in their taxis, too, and the driver today even had a Thai instrument known as a phin in the back window of his cab. At one point, the cabbie offered to demonstrate how he plays his three-stringed lute from the Isaan region in the Northeast of Thailand, but since he was behind the wheel of his taxi, I told him to wait until after we arrived at our destination. In the meantime, he put in a CD of Thai Northeast Native Melodies and cranked the volume on high.

Taxi Workout

2011-07-23T23:07:00.006+07:00

Bangkok has countless gyms and fitness clubs to join, but many locals simply head to public spaces in the early hours of the day to get their exercise. If you're in a park in Bangkok at sun up, you'll most likely see joggers, groups doing aerobics, weightlifters, power walkers, people playing takraw or badminton, and still others practicing t'ai-chi and qigong. Or if you're in a taxi here, you might encounter a plastic toy with a spring that appears to be doing calisthenics in sync with the movement of the cab.

Knit Coverups

2011-07-16T10:12:00.006+07:00

Many Bangkok cabbies don't approve of naked gear shifts, unprotected emergency brake handles, or exposed turn signal levers in their taxis. They prefer to clothe their interior parts in colorful knit cozies. And anyway, wives, aunties, and grannies obviously take pleasure in creating them.

Barefoot and Driving

2011-07-11T21:18:00.006+07:00

Cabbies driving barefoot is a fairly common sight in Bangkok. Considering that many of the drivers here hail from the countryside where shoes are considered optional, it makes sense. And anyway, this is a way the cabbies can feel more relaxed and carefree driving in Bangkok's mad traffic.

Top 10 Cartoon Characters in Bangkok Taxicabs

2011-07-04T17:31:00.005+07:00

1. Tweety
2. Doraemon
3. Hello Kitty
4. Winnie the Pooh
5. Mickey Mouse
6. Garfield
7. Minnie Mouse
8. Pokémon
9. Nemo
10. Taz

Taxi Piggies

2011-06-27T19:58:00.007+07:00

Lately, I've been noticing a lot of pig characters in Bangkok taxis. So, one day I asked a cab driver with stuffed toy porkers on his dashboard about the Thai fascination with this creature. He told me that anyone, including himself, with swine decorations was born in the Chinese year of the pig. That's probably true in most cases, but I'm guessing that some Thai cabbies just can't resist collecting chubby little playful piggy novelties.

Bangkok Headbanger

2011-06-24T20:43:00.009+07:00

When I got into a taxi today, the first thing I noticed was the driver's big hair and eyeliner. He looked as if he was on his way to a Bon Jovi concert circa 1984. And with the stickers of skulls and crossbones on the steering wheel and a black bandana tied around the rearview mirror, the cab itself was a throwback to the days of glam metal. When the driver popped in his Best Hair Band Hits of the 80s CD, it was confirmed that it was going to be a head-banging ride back home.

Happy Buddha

2011-06-18T22:05:00.007+07:00

One of the goals in Buddhism is to achieve a certain level of happiness. The monks depicted in the statuettes, however, apparently haven't found joy yet. But the driver of this cab wanted to ensure that the Buddha would be content, so he painted smiling red lips on the golden face of his Buddha charm.

Law of Attraction

2011-06-11T21:11:00.005+07:00

According to the "law of attraction", money draws in more money. I guess that this is the theory of Bangkok cabbies who decorate their taxis with coins. Apparently trinkets and lucky charms attract more knickknacks, as well.

Poultry in Motion

2011-06-06T21:52:00.020+07:00

In Thai culture, chickens are symbols of luck and prosperity and they're also believed to offer protection. But this is the first time I've seen statuettes of fowl with fake foliage tied around their necks. I asked the cab driver about his poultry garnished with silk plants, but his answer was vague. I'm confused: does this have something to do with black magic or is this display in honor of a popular dish in Thailand, Pad Ka-Prow Gai (Chicken with Holy Basil)?

DIY Cabby

2011-06-02T21:35:00.009+07:00

Want to jazz up the interior of your car, but don't want to spend a fortune at a shop that does custom interior trim work? Don't worry, you can do as this Bangkok cabbie and make designs on the door panels using colored tape. This DIY mentality is common among Bangkok taxi drivers. In most cases, they need to be frugal out of necessity. But it never ceases to amaze me how resourceful cabbies here can be.

Hello Kitty Taxi

2011-05-29T19:54:00.011+07:00

In the West, Hello Kitty products are mainly aimed at pre-adolescent female consumers, but in Thailand everyone adores this Japanese cat. Here secretaries carry pink handbags printed with images of this white feline, middle-aged ladies wear crystal jewelry in the shape of its iconic face, and fifty year old men driving taxis have big decals of Hello Kitty plastered on the back windows of their cabs.

Blackbird Fly

2011-05-26T23:38:00.009+07:00

Blackbirds have long been a symbol of remembrance, sorrow and mystery, and they're sometimes associated with all things evil. These enigmatic creatures often appear in classic literature and of course, there are several songs that allude to them, including a well-known Beatles song and the jazz standard, "Bye, Bye Blackbird". I asked the driver of this taxi about his black feathered friend and he explained to me how it helps him to conjure up cold hard cash.

Taxi Revolution

2011-05-15T20:14:00.008+07:00

Stickers of Che Guevara, the Argentine revolutionary, are commonly found in Bangkok taxis. This stylized portrait of him has, of course, become a universal symbol of rebellion. For Bangkok cabbies, his image represents the promise of economic and political reform. In a country like Thailand where there's a huge gap between social classes and where there have been major uprisings in recent times, it's not surprising that Che is a hero here.

Breakfast of the Gods

2011-05-11T20:03:00.011+07:00

As if he were a waiter reciting the specials of the day in a restaurant, the driver of this cab listed the various provisions in the small bowls on his dashboard: red curry, stir-fried greens, steamed jasmine rice, and iced tea. Every morning, this taxi driver puts out food in his cab as offerings to the gods that he worships. I asked him if he changes the menu on a daily basis and he told me that he always feeds them the same thing because these are their favorite foods.

Animist Cab

2011-05-08T12:08:00.012+07:00

In addition to idolizing gods that resemble humans and animals, many Thais worship trees, plants, and other entities from the natural world. These animist beliefs have their origin in ancient times, so it's fascinating to see these practices carried on today in the modern day context of taxi cabs. In this particular case, branches from a sacred bodhi tree have been tied together with various strings and cloth that function as blessings. But when I see these bound and twisted branches and consider the possibility that it contains a soul, I can't help but think that it must be in agony.

Buffalo Taxi

2011-05-01T18:20:00.010+07:00

As Thailand becomes more industrialized and as more farmers here utilize mechanized equipment, water buffaloes are becoming a less common sight in Thai rice paddies. But why has this Bangkok taxi driver banned them from his cab? In actuality, he's not literally prohibiting this animal from entering his taxi, although I'm not sure if one would fit in the passenger seat anyway. In this culture, anyone who is considered to be dimwitted is called a buffalo, and so this driver is trying to be funny with his window sticker. But in my opinion, it's unfortunate that this hard-working animal who has been the companion of Thai farmers for centuries has become the butt of a joke. I'm glad that this taxi driver has barred guns and knives from his cab, but I wish that he and anyone else who makes fun of buffaloes, for that matter, would change their attitude.

Thai Michelin Man

2011-04-28T21:35:00.003+07:00

As one of the world's oldest and most recognized trademarks, Bibendum, or the Michelin Man as he's more commonly known, represents the famous tire company in over 150 countries, including Thailand. It especially makes sense to see him here as this country is the world's biggest producer and exporter of rubber. In Thailand, the Michelin Man can be spotted in front of tire stores and auto repair shops, as well as in a few Bangkok taxis. One of my favorite things about the Thai version of the Michelin Man is that he's sometimes depicted giving a traditional wai, the Thai greeting and gesture used to show respect.

Goddess in the Round

2011-04-24T14:42:00.007+07:00

Entrepreneurs in Thailand often display images of the Thai goddess, Nang Gwak, in their places of business. Sitting Thai style with one hand gesturing to potential customers, you can find this beckoning madame in noodle shops, salons, markets, convenience stores, and of course, in taxis. To lure in passengers from every angle, this cabbie has a glass orb with nine Nang Gwaks facing out in every direction. By the way, the number nine is lucky in Thai culture.

Penang Teksi

2011-04-20T19:24:00.011+07:00

I just got back from Penang, Malaysia. Before I went, I had no idea what their taxis would be like. Besides the fact that Malaysians spell the name of their taxis differently, it turns out that they're pretty similar to Thai taxis. As is the case in a majority of Bangkok cabs, many Penang teksis have a menagerie of lucky charms inside.

Duct Tape Taxi

2011-04-14T14:03:00.009+07:00

Duct tape can be used to hold almost anything together, including the dashboard of this Bangkok taxi. Originally known as 'duck tape' because it is waterproof, it was invented by the Johnson and Johnson Co. in 1942 during World War II to keep moisture out of ammunition cases. After the war, 'duck tape' became known as 'duct tape' because it was employed in the booming housing industry in the US to connect heating and air conditioning duct work together. For additional ways to utilize duct tape and for more fun facts about this form of adhesive, check out the Duct Tape Guys.

Frilly Tissue Cover

2011-04-10T19:51:00.008+07:00

Many Thais seem to be fond of frilly kitsch. Even tissue boxes here are regularly embellished with some sort of decorative overlay. The driver told me that his auntie crocheted this cover with ruffles specifically with his taxi in mind. I wonder if she could have made it any less masculine.

Vicious Visage

2011-04-02T12:29:00.009+07:00

For those who believe in the ancient Chinese art of feng shui, one method of keeping negative energy at bay is through the use of certain powerful symbols placed in strategic locations. In this cab, the driver positioned a feng shui tiger sticker on his passenger door in an attempt to inhibit evil spirits from entering. Then again, the grim expression on the face of this cabbie is probably enough to frighten off even the most wicked spirits.

Cab Upholstery

2011-03-25T12:31:00.010+07:00

When given a choice, most Bangkok cabbies would rather sport car upholstery made out of vinyl in bright colors, rich tones, and/or with patterns than plain gray cloth. Considering that many taxis in this city have hot pink exteriors, car seats with matching color makes perfect sense. And since designer name brands are so popular here, it's not surprising to see upholstery with Burberry's signature plaid.

Mr. Taxi Showmanship

2011-03-18T21:56:00.006+07:00

If this taxi driver could choose to be any celebrity from the past, he would be Liberace. This cabbie has a penchant for wearing big rings and decorating his taxi with rhinestones and velvet accessories. The only thing that he's missing in his taxi is a Liberace-style candelabra.

More is Better

2011-03-13T11:49:00.008+07:00

According to this Bangkok cabbie, you can never have too many plush characters on key chains, toy cars, and feathery hair clips. This driver is hoping to fill his entire taxi interior with these trinkets and doodads. In his opinion, more is better. This is apparently also his attitude when it comes to rearview mirrors.

Sticky Rice

2011-03-06T11:47:00.007+07:00

It's rare to see Bangkok cabbies eating in their taxis, but every once in a while you catch a glimpse of a driver having a snack. When cabbies in this city get hungry, they usually pull aside and eat at one of the many stalls on the side of the street. Today in the cab, my driver had a basket of sticky rice, a staple in the diet for those from Northern and Northeastern Thailand. I asked him why he didn't have any somtum bpoo plaa raa, a standard accompaniment, and he told me that he didn't want to stink up his cab with spicy papaya salad that contains fermented crab and fish sauce.

Flower Peddlers

2011-03-04T22:53:00.006+07:00

Drivers in Bangkok, including cabbies, enjoy a unique service that you won't find in too many other places. At certain busy intersections in this city, peddlers with phuang malai flower offerings strung on pipes or bamboo rods approach cars with their blooms. For 10 or 20 baht (less than one US dollar) you can buy a fresh garland of jasmine with roses or marigolds; not a bad price to express gratitude to the gods on the dashboard.

Siamese Shift

2011-02-25T20:41:00.008+07:00

Among the kitsch and cheap trinkets found in Bangkok taxis, there are also many treasures to be admired. The other evening, I was completely blown away by this finely crafted gear shift decorated with traditional hand-painted Thai patterns and motifs. I've seen many exquisite artifacts and handicrafts in Bangkok cabs, but this has to be one of the most attractive car accessories that I've ever laid my eyes on.

Blue Light Special

2011-02-16T20:38:00.006+07:00

A UFO has landed. And it's on the ceiling of a Bangkok taxi. The driver of this cab thought he would upgrade his vehicle with a big blue fluorescent light. The lamp comes complete with a variety of settings, including a flashing mode to warn passengers that aliens have arrived.

The Incredible Cabbie

2011-02-11T19:19:00.003+07:00

Today, my taxi driver seemed inspired by the green hulk figure on his dashboard. As we maneuvered through Bangkok's heavy traffic, he would periodically roll down his window and yell at pedestrians, motorcyclists, and anyone else who would listen. There were a few occasions when I thought he was going to spontaneously bulk up and turn bright green.

Taxi Lotus

2011-02-06T01:08:00.004+07:00

It's common to see images of lotuses throughout Thailand, not to mention the real flowers, so it was no surprise to see an illustration of lotus blossoms on a sticker plastered on a taxi window. The lotus has long been a symbol of spiritual enlightenment in Asia. And some say the flower represents human life: the plant first takes root in the mud, then it rises up through the water as it continues to flourish, and finally it sprouts a beautiful blossom. I wonder what kind of plant symbolizes those people who never seem to make their way out of the mud?

Don't Look Back

2011-01-28T17:02:00.009+07:00

Notice anything missing in this taxi? One hint: it's the implement in the front of the car that the driver uses to see behind the vehicle. I asked the cabby about it and he told me that it had fallen off weeks ago and that he doesn't really miss it. Fortunately, he has a Buddha statuette on the dashboard and yan monk drawings on the ceiling to protect him when he accidentally backs up into cars and other things behind the vehicle.

All That Glitters

2011-01-21T21:34:00.006+07:00

Most Thais are crazy about anything made out of gold. Never mind if the gold is fake and in the form of cheap gewgaws from China. My driver told me that his menagerie of faux gold talismans on the dashboard is supposed to attract wealth. But then he laughed as he pointed out his fake gold Swiss watch and told me that despite all of his efforts, he still can't afford to buy a real one.

The Marble Temple

2011-01-15T23:17:00.013+07:00

Most Bangkokkians have a favorite temple, or Wat as it's known in Thai. For me, it's difficult to pick just one because there are numerous magnificent Buddhist temples in this city from which to choose, including Wat Po with its giant reclining Buddha statue and traditional Thai massage school, Wat Phra Kaew with its "emerald" Buddha image and association with Thai royalty, and Wat Arun, or the Temple of Dawn, with its decorative mosaics that cover the surfaces of many of the buildings. Another temple that many Thais favor is Wat Benchamabophit. Wat Ben was constructed in 1899 and features an impressive Italian carrara marble exterior. I asked the taxi driver about his postcard of Wat Ben and he told me that it's his favorite temple because it was built by one of Thailand's best-loved monarchs, King Rama V.

Pray for a Knockout

2011-01-09T19:53:00.007+07:00

One of the many dualities that exists in Thailand involves the contrast of a peaceful, laid-back Buddhist culture with an all out, knock 'em down, kick 'em where it hurts national sport of Muay Thai boxing. On Sundays, many Thais visit temples, but it's also a popular day for boxing matches. Thais generally don't see these two activities as being at odds with one another. In fact, some Thais make special trips to temples just to pray for the victory of their favorite boxer.

It's a Jungle Out There

2011-01-02T20:11:00.008+07:00

Talismans believed to possess protective qualities are usually found inside cabs and other vehicles here, but occasionally you see charms attached to car exteriors. For drivers attempting to scare away evil spirits, menacing beast-like figures such as this King Kong mounted to the rear hood of the cab should do the trick.

Handmade Invocation

2010-12-29T14:37:00.006+07:00

When it comes to sacred religious objects, one tends to think of meticulously designed articles made of precious materials. Of course, this isn't always the case. Holy items can be made of anything as long as the person who possesses the object believes that it holds some divine power. Even copy paper containing script written with a normal 2B pencil can become a holy artifact when it involves sacred Sanskrit text created by a Buddhist monk.

Lucky Car Windows

2010-12-24T21:07:00.004+07:00

When you buy a new car in Thailand, one of the first things you do is invite a Buddhist monk to bless the vehicle with mystical yan drawings. The monks typically create them on car ceilings, but in this taxi the sacred symbols and calligraphic text are on the windows. I wonder if the driver of this cab will ever be able to wash the glass. All it would take is a few spritzes of window cleaner and all of the good luck would be gone.

Taxi Window Stickers

2010-12-07T22:45:00.012+07:00

Many Bangkok cabbies are sticker happy. Who can blame them when phone companies, radio stations, and other organizations provide free decals to taxi drivers. And in Bangkok, stickers are easy to come by as there are vendors roaming the streets with huge carts selling every kind of design with an adhesive backing imaginable. The colorful graphics on the decals add an element of fun to the taxis, and there's a practical side to them, too: they help keep cab interiors cool as they block out the blazing hot Thai sun. Never mind that these cabbies can barely see out their windows to drive.

Light Fantastic

2010-11-26T21:49:00.006+07:00

There are many types of Buddha images in Bangkok taxis, but this is the first one I've seen that has changing colored lights inside of it. According to the driver, the luminous colors are supposed to represent the hues of the seven chakras, or energy centers, in the body. But as the lights flashed different colors, it reminded me more of a discotheque than a spiritual aura.

Lucky Photo

2010-11-22T11:24:00.004+07:00

Among the taxi talismans in this cab is this image of the driver's own bright pink taxi. To create a happy dreamlike feeling in the picture, the driver cut out a photo of his cab and collaged it on a background of sunflowers. In a city where a majority of taxi drivers rent their cabs, this cabbie is celebrating his ownership. I guess it's not that unusual for automobile lovers to hang up photos of cars, but in this case the taxi driver uses the picture to literally worship his cab and to ward off bad luck.

Black Beauties

2010-11-14T11:58:00.002+07:00

In Thailand, you see black beauties like these in gardens among plants, in mini shrines in shops and restaurants, and of course, in taxis. If you ask me, these kitschy figurines with their jet-black skin and hair, white dot eyes and fingernails, and cherry red lips are disturbing, especially since the prevailing attitude here is negative toward those with dark skin. But if I stop and consider that they represent an alternative form of the cat with the waving arm you see in Asian businesses, and that they're a version of the Thai goddess, Nang Gwak, then I feel a tinge less uneasy about them.

When Pigs Fly

2010-11-03T21:25:00.007+07:00

As far as I know, the idiom "when pigs fly" doesn't exist in the Thai language. Maybe the meaning is universal, but I'm guessing that the driver of this taxi simply liked this piggy sticker and thought it would add panache to his dashboard. There's another Thai expression with a similar meaning that I like even better: "When 7-11 closes".

License Renewed

2010-10-25T19:53:00.003+07:00

When I got in the taxi today and saw the driver's taxi license photo with blue markings on it, I asked the cabbie about it. I figured that his kid probably did it or that it was some kind of joke. Instead the cabbie told me that he had recently grown a beard and mustache and got glasses and he thought he should update his photo. Why make a special trip to the Ministry of Transportation and pay them for a new license when you can do it yourself.

The Gambler

2010-10-22T22:48:00.011+07:00

Most forms of gambling are illegal in Thailand. But you'd never know it. Many Thais regularly gamble. Here boxing, soccer, snooker, cock-fighting and horse racing almost always involves betting. There's even an underground lottery and I have a several Thai friends that have a "bookie". Many Thai people also patronize casinos in Cambodia, Burma, or Laos just across the border. The cabbie driving this taxi with stickers of playing cards and dice on his window told me he often goes to illegal casinos. He offered to take me to one, but I decided that I didn't want to get into a potentially dangerous situation. Considering the type of characters that own these joints, I'd rather not gamble with my own life.

Thirsty Ghost

2010-10-15T17:25:00.010+07:00

If you see an open beverage in a Bangkok taxi with a straw in it, don't assume that it's for the driver. It could be an offering to the gods. In Thailand, votives commonly include drinks. I asked the cabbie why he chose this particular yogurt beverage and he told me that it's for Gu Man Tong, the Thai ghost child who enjoys this type of refreshment. I looked around the taxi for a statue of the ghost kid, but I only saw images of Thai monks. So I asked him where he keeps the phantom and he replied that he's never seen him, but he hopes Gu Man Tong will appear one day and take a sip. As I rode along in the cab, I prayed to myself that this isn't the day the ghost will haunt the taxi.

Perfect Imperfection

2010-10-12T23:38:00.006+07:00

In Bangkok taxis, even cracks in windshields can receive decorative treatments. The driver of this cab could have used utilitarian tape or clear glue to patch the fissure, but instead highlighted the crack by sticking suction cups in alternating colors over it. Perhaps this remedy could be viewed metaphorically as a lesson on how to deal with quandaries in life. Rather than hiding issues or throwing out problems altogether, we should learn to celebrate imperfections and turn flaws into something wonderful.

Rhinestone Cabbie

2010-10-07T09:15:00.010+07:00

The Thai aesthetic calls for superfluous embellishments, frills, and garnishes. Here the notion of "plain and simple" is rarely considered an option. Accessorizing is a way of life for most Thais, and Bangkok taxi drivers are no exception. Most of them can't live without decorations in their cabs and a little bling in their wardrobe. The taxi driver in this photo is all about sparkles. Not only were his sunglasses bejeweled with rhinestones, but the cubic zirconia rings on his fingers also glittered in the sunlight and his t-shirt had shimmering sequins on it.

Funny Number

2010-09-29T22:39:00.009+07:00

In Thai, the number five is pronounced, "ha" and is spoken in a high tone of voice. So, if you repeat the number a couple of times, it sounds like you're laughing. In informal written Thai, such as emails or text messages to friends, Thais often write "55" instead of "haha". When I took a taxi today and the cabbie told me the fare was fifty-five baht, I asked the cabbie why he was laughing. It took him a little while to get my little joke, but when he did, we both had a few chuckles.

Ray of Sunshine

2010-09-18T21:45:00.010+07:00

Lately, it feels like the rainy season is never going to end. Just when you think the sky looks like it's going to clear, black clouds rush in and rain on your parade. By the time I arrived at my destination in the taxi today, it had already started to pour outside. Fortunately, my kindhearted taxi driver insisted I use one of his umbrellas. Even on the gloomiest of days, sometimes there are rays of sunshine that peak out of the storm clouds.

Look-alikes

2010-09-09T22:18:00.005+07:00

Have you ever seen pets that look like their owners? Or how about long-married couples that closely resemble one another? And has anyone ever heard of taxi drivers that look like younger versions of renowned Thai monks?

Pandamonium

2010-09-02T22:31:00.007+07:00

The national symbol of Thailand has, of course, long been the elephant, but in the past year or so, Chinese pandas have been all the rage here. The craze was set off last May when the first giant panda was born in Thailand at the Chiang Mai Zoo. The panda's parents are on loan from China, and the cub named Lin Bing will return to its homeland in two years. In the meantime, the Chiang Mai Zoo has built a 60 million baht home for the cub, hoardes of Thai people are making pilgrimages to visit Lin Bing, a Thai cable company has launched a Panda Channel which gives regular updates on the celebrity panda's daily activities, and Bangkok cabbies are decorating their taxis with panda paraphernalia.

Smells like Tokyo

2010-09-01T21:53:00.008+07:00

Today, when I got in a cab, I detected an unusual aroma emanating from the front of the car. I soon noticed a pink air freshener with the words, "Tokyo 828" on it. Apparently, the driver has never heard of pine or lemon-scented fresheners in the shape of an evergreen tree. According to the cabbie, the so-called Tokyo-scented can of fragrance is supposed to smell like Japanese cherry blossoms in Spring. If you ask me, it reeks of a geisha girl's cheap perfume and some raw fish.

Taxi Cubicle

2010-08-14T00:07:00.008+07:00

Cabs are a "home away from home" for those who take on the job of driving taxis in this city. Cabbies spend as many as 70 or 80 hours per week in their cab, so it makes sense that they individualize their cars with photos and trinkets to create a comfortable, homey atmosphere. It's really no different than white collar workers in the corporate world who personalize their cubicles. The only difference is that these office spaces are on wheels.

Magical Triangle

2010-08-05T08:15:00.006+07:00

It's not often that you see a triangular incantation cloth on the ceiling of a Bangkok taxi. They're usually square or rectangular like the ones surrounding the bright red one. Covered with mystical charts, sacred writing, and age-old symbols, these magical cloths help the driver to feel secure as they're believed to bring luck and protect the cabbie, the car, and the passengers from harm. And in this case, the driver is trying to invoke all things good for Thailand.

Tattoo Wizard

2010-07-20T20:13:00.003+07:00

The other night I asked my taxi driver about the mask displayed on his dashboard and he told me that the face represents a Thai tattoo master named Ajarn Noo Kampai. The Ajarn, or teacher, is widely known for his sacred Thai and Khmer tattoos that are believed to protect the body (and mind) from harm. It turns out that my taxi driver knows the Ajarn and offered to take me to his house that night to witness his artful skills and accompanying shamanistic rituals. Even if I had had the time to experience the Ajarn working his magic that night, I probably wouldn't have signed up for the pain-inducing part. But maybe witnessing the rituals would have been enough to keep evil spirits away for a while.

Fruitless Taxi

2010-07-11T23:51:00.009+07:00

Durian, the spiky-looking tropical fruit that originates from Southeast Asia, isn't welcome in certain public places. Hotels, airplanes, and even taxis sometimes have signs or stickers on their windows that inform customers to leave their fruit at the door because it has a strong unpleasant odor. There's an urban myth that claims that some people who consume durian in combination with alcoholic beverages die from a strange chemical reaction. So it's an especially good thing the sticker next to it forbids customers to drink in the cab.

Crystal Clear Buddha

2010-07-10T23:07:00.010+07:00

There is something profound about a clear glass image of the Buddha. For one thing, it is evocative of the Buddhist practice of clearing the mind through meditation. And it also recalls the Buddha's achievement of nirvana, the transcendent state in which there is neither suffering, desire, nor sense of self. In Western culture, we speak about glasses that are half full in relation to a person's optimistic outlook. In Buddhist philosophy, however, it's more desirable for the glass to be empty.

Mystery Bag

2010-07-04T17:11:00.005+07:00

I asked the taxi driver if he could tell me what was in the bag and he answered, "you know, the usual religious stuff like amulets and good luck charms". At that point, the conversation changed to a different topic and I temporarily forgot about the sack bundled up around the rearview mirror. A few minutes later, I coughed a few times and the driver reached into his bag and pulled out a throat lozenge. As he offered it to me, I laughed and asked him if he had a bottle of water in there, too.

All Ears

2010-06-26T12:06:00.005+07:00

Do you know why Buddha's ears are so big? In the case of the fat and happy Buddha, it has nothing to do with the fact that the rest of his physique is large. It's related to his rejection of material possessions. The earrings that he wore in his earlier years left them elongated, symbolizing the notion that his worldly goods once weighed him down physically and mentally. I wonder if his big ears also help him to hear the music in the taxi better.

Grrrl Driver

2010-06-23T22:16:00.007+07:00

Before I jumped into the taxi today I noticed feminine-looking stickers with butterflies on the windows, so I shouldn't have been so surprised to see a female cabbie at the wheel when I got in. As I caught sight of her, I immediately started to remark that I haven't met many lady drivers in Bangkok, but before I could finish half of the sentence, she completed my words. After I thought about it, I realized that she must hear this same phrase all the time from passengers because there are very few women drivers in Bangkok. Maybe they don't last long at the job because they get sick of hearing customers drone on about how they never see girl drivers.

Ghost of Taxi Present

2010-06-20T10:18:00.020+07:00

Some Bangkok cabbies create ghost-like reflections of famous Thai Buddhist monks on their car windows by placing photos on the dashboard and relying on the light and shiny surface of the windshield to produce the image. The drivers believe that the monks protect them from accidents and misfortune, but the effect is slightly eerie. As the moving world outside appears through the translucent image, it's as if the monk's spirit is with you at all times in the cab. The fact that the technique involves likenesses of monks makes it a shade less bone-chilling. I can think of much scarier apparitions that could appear in taxis.

Breathe in...

2010-06-14T21:37:00.004+07:00

Deep breathing exercises are a good way to relax. The technique is used in yoga and meditation and can help release tension from the body and clear the mind. The other day, I tried to practice deep breathing in the taxi. But the cabbie was driving like a maniac and I ended up hyper-ventilating. And to make matters worse, every time I slowly inhaled, the toxic fumes inside the vehicle filled my lungs and made me cough uncontrollably.

Typographic Taxi

2010-06-11T18:02:00.013+07:00

The taxi driver of this cab should have been a graphic designer. There's nothing wrong with his current occupation, but it's obvious that he enjoyed arranging type on the surface of his cab windows the same way designers organize text in their work. The randomly placed Thai letters on the windows have transcended their basic function of communicating words and have moved into the realm of design where the stickers have artfully created a patterned typographic arrangement.

Taxi Reads

2010-06-04T22:56:00.007+07:00

What's a Bangkok cabbie to do when traffic lights turn red or when stuck in relentless traffic? One driver I met the other day spends his downtime reading. Judging from the tall stacks of books on the dashboard and in the rear window, he reads a lot. Most of the publications in his cab focus on the Buddha's teachings or philosophies of famous Thai monks. I asked him if he had a favorite book, and I was completely taken by surprise when he told me that he loves the "Harry Potter" book series translated into Thai.

Carabao

2010-05-28T23:51:00.013+07:00

The veteran Thai rock band, Carabao, has been jamming for three and a half decades. Throughout their long career, their music has tackled issues related to Thai society and politics, and as a result, the band has an immense following of regular Thai people, including many Bangkok taxi drivers. It's common to hear their "songs of life" in cabs here and many taxis have stickers with the band's buffalo skull logo on their windows. Recently, Add Carabao, the lead singer, teamed up with Thaitanium, the Thai-American hip hop band, to produce a single on Thaitanium's new album, Still Resisting. The result is a surprisingly harmonious balance between Add's earthy voice and Thaitanium's vigorous rapping. Check out the music video below with some great footage of Bangkok.